In this post, I’m sharing how to knit the English Mesh Lace stitch, step by step (It’s terribly, awfully, good, old bean 😉
Although it looks complicated at first sight, it only requires two types of simple decreases, a central double decrease, and yarn over.
The reason why two different decreases are needed is that each of them has a different slope; this is how this rich texture can be achieved (as we’ve learned when practicing the Thorn stitch).
Honestly, the English Mesh Lace stitch is the perfect option for a shawl or a scarf, but also, it will work for a nice cardigan or vest!
It has a vintage look to it, romantic… exactly what we need when thinking about certain types of garments 😉
Nevertheless, if you choose to knit a rectangular piece that should stay flat, I suggest adding a nice edge on each side of the piece (as I did for the swatch shown below).
But before we start, I need to remind you…
Two indispensable tips to ensure a triumph when knitting lace patterns
First of all, using sharp tip needles will save you time and a lot of work! #ad
Well, a sharp tip knitting needle, will help you do any sort of decreases quickly (it’s easier to knit two stitches together or to pass stitches over).
Last but not least, don’t forget to block your work once it’s finished #ad
In order to get crispy stitches and a flat pattern, it’s necessary to soak and gently squeeze the garment (or swatch), flatten using the palm of your hand, pin it, and let it air dry.
So, without further ado, grab your needles and a little bit of yarn, and let’s get started!
CO: Cast on
RS: Right side of the work
yo: Yarn over
k2tog: Knit two stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
ssk: Slip one stitch as if to knit, slip the next, put both back onto the left-hand needle, and knit them together (Slip slip knit, it’s a left-leaning decrease)
cdd: Slip two stitches together as if to knit, knit the next, and pass the slipped stitches over (Central Double Decrease)
WS: Wrong side of the work
How to knit the English Mesh Lace stitch pattern
CO multiples of 13 (this number doesn’t include selvage stitches).
1º and 9º rows (RS): *K1, yo, ssk, K1, k2tog, yo, K1, yo, ssk, K1, k2tog, yo, K1*. Repeat from * to *, to end.
2º and every even row: P across.
3º row: *K1, yo, K1, cdd, K1, yo, K1, yo, K1, cdd, K1, yo, K1*. Repeat from * to *, to end.
5º row: *K1, k2tog, yo, K1, yo, ssk, K1, k2tog, yo, K1, yo, ssk, K1*. Repeat from * to *, to end.
7º and 13º rows: *k2tog, K1, yo, K1, yo, K1, cdd, K1, yo, K1 , yo, K1, ssk*. Repeat from * to *, to end.
11º row: *K1, k2tog, yo, K1, yo, ssk, K1, k2tog, yo, K1, yo, ssk, K1*.
14º row: P across.
These fourteen rows create the pattern. Repeat them until the desired length is reached.
When finished, BO purlwise after a row 13 (WS).
This is the other side of the work:
Enjoy the video tutorial 🙂
Thank you for watching!
Hugs, and happy knitting 🙂
Carolina – So Woolly
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