How to Knit a Reversible Vintage Lace Stitch + video

In this tutorial, I’m sharing how to knit an adorable vintage lace stitch pattern.

Although both sides look different, they are very pretty, so I’d say it’s a reversible knitting pattern.

I think it’s the perfect pattern for a romantic scarf, rectangular shawl, or wrap.

Moreover, it’ll look great also on a cardigan or sweater.

If that’s your choice, you could use it to knit the whole garment, for the sleeves only, or as a central panel.

This reversible vintage lace stitch is an 8-row repeat pattern, fun to knit, and I think we’ll be practicing a purl simple decrease for the first time 😉

Before we start knitting our swatch I have a couple of tips for you:

First, think about using sharp tip needles, because, they will save you time, effort, and maybe tears…

Pointy needles help us a huge deal when making decreases.

These are some of the best needles for lace knitting #ad

Last but not least, block your project once it’s finished (if you’re making a sweater or cardigan, block the pieces before sewing them).

The blocking process is essential when knitting lace in general.

Why?

Well, it makes the fibers “relax”, prevents the fabric from curling, and helps the stitches look crispy, so you’ll get an HD pattern 🙂

What else could we ask for? Not much more!

So, grab your needles, and your favorite yarn, and let’s knit together!

I made this swatch out of 100% Superwash Merino Wool Yarn (worsted weight, super smooth, fuzz-free!) #ad

Abbreviations

CO: Cast on

st: Stitch

RS: Right side of the work

k: Knit

p: Purl

p2tog: Purl two stitches together

k2tog: Knit two stitches together

sd: Simple Decrease. Slip one stitch as if to knit, knit the next, and pass the slipped stitch over

yo: Yarn over

BO: Bind off

Reversible Vintage Lace Knitting Pattern

CO multiples of 12 + 2 + 2 (edge or salvage stitches).

For example, 12 * 2 = 24 + 2 = 26 + 2 = 28 st.

1º Row (right side of work): K1 (edge), K1, *sd, K3, yo, P2, yo, K3, k2tog*. Repeat from * to *, to last 2 st, ending with K1, K1 (edge)

2º Row: K1 (edge), K1, *p2tog, P2, yo, K4, yo, P2, slip 1 purlwise, P1, pass slipped st over*. Repeat from * to *, to last 2 st, ending with K1, K1 (edge)

3º Row: K1 (edge), K1, *sd, K1, yo, P6, yo, K1, k2tog*. Repeat from * to *, to last 2 st, ending with K1, K1 (edge)

4º Row: K1 (edge), K1, *p2tog, yo, K8, yo, sd*. Repeat from * to *, to last 2 st, ending with K1, K1 (edge)

5º Row: K1 (edge), K1, *P1, yo, K3, k2tog, sd, K3, yo, P1*. Repeat from * to *, to last 2 st, ending with K1, K1 (edge)

6º Row: K1 (edge), K1, *K2, yo, P2, sd, p2tog, P2, yo, K2*. Repeat from * to *, to last 2 st, ending with K1, K1 (edge)

7º Row: K1 (edge), K1, *P3, yo, K1, k2tog, sd, K1, yo, P3*. Repeat from *to *, to last 2 st, ending with K1, K1 (edge)

8º Row: K1 (edge), K1, *K4, yo, slip 1 purlwise, P1, pass slipped st over, p2tog, yo, K4*. Repeat from * to *, to last 2 st, ending with K1, K1 (edge).

These 8 rows form the pattern. Repeat them, until the desired length is reached.

When finished, BO purlwise after row 8 (RS).

This is the other side of the work: