How to Knit a Raglan Sweater with Straight Needles + Video
In this post, I’m sharing how to knit a Raglan Sweater with straight needles, great for beginners.
It’s a 4 pieces bottom-up construction, as follows:
We’ll start at the hem (made in 2 x 2 Ribbing stitch), then, work up to the neckline in Stockinette stitch, ending with the neckline (also knitted in 2 x 2 Ribbing stitch).
The good news is that the back and the front are the same, as the sleeves.
So you’ll knit one of them and then repeat the process for the second one.
Furthermore, there’s no need for the circular needles (not even for the neckline)… easy-peasy!
Actually, after sharing another lovely sweater pattern a couple of years ago, I realized that although it was also made using straight needles, the neckline required circulars, and some aren’t fans of the in-the-round knitting.
It’s that’s you, then this one is for you!
In addition, I’ll teach you 3 kinds of decreases for your Raglan Sweater:
First, the lace pattern, as shown in the images.
However, if you don’t feel too confident knitting lace, there are 2 other options:
The textured no-hole pattern.
Or the simple no-hole pattern. It’s up to you 🙂
Finally, this tutorial will be split into a series of videos on my YouTube channel (a new playlist), so I’ll post all of them in the same link.
And as soon as I release a new chapter, you’ll see the information here, in this same post.
In summary, only one link for the videos, and only one link for the written instructions.
Materials
Long and smooth bamboo straight needles (US 6 / 4 mm + US 8 / 5 mm) #ad
Number 4, medium, or worsted weight yarn, in the following quantities:
Size XS: 550 gr. (11 balls)
Sizes S and M: 700 gr. (14 balls)
Sizes L and XL: 850 gr. (17 balls)
Size XXL: 950 gr. (19 balls)
I used a blend of wool, Alpaca, and linen yarn (for 5 mm / US 8 needles). Unfortunately, it’s discontinued.
Each ball contains 50 gr./1.8 oz and 75 m./82yds.
However, this one could be an excellent substitute #ad
Use the yarn of your preference, the main thing is to obtain the same gauge.
Gauge swatch
A 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in) square knitted in Stockinette stitch, using the larger needles = 18 stitches and 24 rows.
If you are getting more stitches per cm/in, go up a needle size; if you are getting less stitches, go down a needle size.
Please note that if your gauge is different, the size of the finished sweater will be different too.
Rule of Thumb: To be successful, it’s essential to obtain the same gauge 😉
Finished Bust Circumference Measurements (after seaming)
XS: 34” (86 cm)
S: 37″ (94 cm)
M: 41″ (104 cm)
L: 44″ (112 cm)
XL: 50″ (127 cm)
XXL: 53″ (135 cm)
Total Length of the Raglan Sweater
XS: 23” (58 cm)
S: 23 1/2” (60 cm)
M: 25″ (63 cm)
L: 25 1/2“ (65 cm)
XL: 26 1/2” (67 cm)
XXL: 27″ (69 cm)
Notes Before Starting:
This pattern was designed for the smallest size (XS).
You’ll find the instructions for larger sizes (S, M, L, XL, and XXL) between parenthesis, in the same order.
The odd rows form the right side of the work.
Abbreviations
CO: Cast on
st.: stitch
RS: Right side of the work
K: Knit
P: Purl
yo: Yarn over
k2tog: Knit two stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
sd: Simple Decrease. Slip one stitch as if to knit, knit the next, and pass the slipped stitch over (left-leaning decrease)
kfb: Knit front and back (knit one stitch as usual, don’t take it off, and knit into the same stitch through the back loop).
pfb: Purl front and back (purl one stitch as usual, don’t take it off, and purl into the same stitch through the back loop).
BO: Bind off
WS: Wrong side of the work
How to Knit a Raglan Sweater using Straight Needles
Back and Front
Ribbing
Using the smaller needles, CO 80 (88 – 96 – 104 – 116, 124) st.
Work 2 in / 5 cm (16 rows approximately) in 2 x 2 Rib Stitch ending with a WS row, as follows:
1º and every odd row (RS): K1 (edge), *K2, P2*. Repeat from * to *, to last 3 st, ending with K2, K1 (edge)
2º and every even row (WS): P1 (edge), *P2 K2*. Repeat from * to *, to last 3 st, ending with P2, P1 (edge).
Stockinette Stitch Section
Using the larger needles:
Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge), k2tog, K to last 3 st, sd, K1 (edge).
2 stitches have been decreased, and 78 (86 – 94 – 102 – 114 – 122) st remain.
Row 2 (WS) : P across
Row 3: K across
Row 4: P across
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until the piece measures 15 (14 3/4 – 15 – 15 1/4 – 15 – 15 1/4) in / 38 (37.5 – 38 – 39 – 38 – 39) cm / from the cast on row, ending with a WS row.
Armhole Decreases
At the beginning of the next 2 rows, bind off some stitches, as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Bind off knitwise 4 (4 – 5 – 5 – 6 – 6) st, K to end
Row 2 (WS): Bind off purlwise 4 (4 – 5 – 5 – 6 – 6) st, P to end
70 (78 – 84 – 92 – 102 – 110) st remain.
Raglan Line
Option “A”: Lace Pattern
Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge), k2tog, K1, yo, K1, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K1, yo, K1, sd, K1 (edge). 2 stitches decreased.
Row 2: P across.
Option “B”: Textured No-Hole Pattern
Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge), K4, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K4, K1 (edge). 2 stitches decreased.
Row 2: P across.
Option “C”: Simple No-Hole Pattern
Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge), K4, sd, K to last 7 st, k2tog, K4, K1 (edge). 2 stitches decreased.
Row 2: P across.
Choose the option of your preference, and repeat rows 1 and 2, as follows:
Size XS: 13 times (26 stitches decreased, 44 stitches remain).
Work 10 more rows as follows:
For the lace pattern:
Rows 1, 5, and 9: K1 (edge), k2tog, K1, yo, K to last 4 stitches, ending with yo, K1, sd, K1 (edge). 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10: P across
Rows 3 and 7: Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge), k2tog, K1, yo, K1, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K1, yo, K1, sd, K1 (edge). 4 stitches decreased.
40 stitches in total.
For the Textured No-Hole Pattern:
Rows 1, 5, and 9: K across. 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10: P across
Rows 3 and 7: K1 (edge), K4, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K4, K1 (edge). 4 stitches decreased.
40 stitches in total.
For the Simple No-Hole Pattern:
Rows 1, 5, and 9: K across. 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10: P across
Rows 3 and 7: K1 (edge), K4, sd, K to last 7 st, k2tog, K4, K1 (edge). 4 stitches decreased.
40 stitches in total.
Size S: 18 times. (36 stitches decreased, 42 stitches remain).
Work 6 more rows as follows:
For the lace pattern:
Rows 1, and 5: K1 (edge), k2tog, K1, yo, K to last 4 stitches, ending with yo, K1, sd, K1 (edge). 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, and 6: P across
Row 3: Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge), k2tog, K1, yo, K1, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K1, yo, K1, sd, K1 (edge). 2 stitches decreased.
40 stitches in total.
For the Textured No-Hole Pattern:
Rows 1, and 5: K across. 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, and 6: P across
Row 3: K1 (edge), K4, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K4, K1 (edge). 2 stitches decreased.
40 stitches in total.
For the Simple No-Hole Pattern:
Rows 1, and 5: K across. 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, and 6: P across
Row 3: K1 (edge), K4, sd, K to last 7 st, k2tog, K4, K1 (edge). 2 stitches decreased.
40 stitches in total.
Size M: 18 times. (36 stitches decreased, 48 stitches remain).
Work 12 more rows as follows:
For the lace pattern:
Rows 1, 5, 9, and 11: K1 (edge), k2tog, K1, yo, K to last 4 stitches, ending with yo, K1, sd, K1 (edge). 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12: P across
Rows 3 and 7: Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge), k2tog, K1, yo, K1, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K1, yo, K1, sd, K1 (edge). 4 stitches decreased.
44 stitches in total.
For the Textured No-Hole Pattern:
Rows 1, 5, 9, and 11: K across. 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12: P across
Rows 3 and 7: K1 (edge), K4, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K4, K1 (edge). 4 stitches decreased.
44 stitches in total.
For the Simple No-Hole Pattern:
Rows 1, 5, 9, and 11: K across. 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12: P across
Rows 3 and 7: K1 (edge), K4, sd, K to last 7 st, k2tog, K4, K1 (edge). 4 stitches decreased.
44 stitches in total.
Size L: 20 times. (40 stitches decreased, 52 stitches remain)
Work 14 more rows as follows:
For the lace pattern:
Rows 1, 5, 9, and 11: K1 (edge), k2tog, K1, yo, K to last 4 stitches, ending with yo, K1, sd, K1 (edge). 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, and 14: P across
Rows 3, 7, and 13: Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge), k2tog, K1, yo, K1, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K1, yo, K1, sd, K1 (edge). 6 stitches decreased.
46 stitches in total.
For the Textured No-Hole Pattern:
Rows 1, 5, 9, and 11: K across. 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, and 14: P across
Rows 3, 7, and 13: K1 (edge), K4, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K4, K1 (edge). 6 stitches decreased.
46 stitches in total.
For the Simple No-Hole Pattern:
Rows 1, 5, 9, and 11: K across. 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, and 14: P across
Rows 3, 7, and 13: K1 (edge), K4, sd, K to last 7 st, k2tog, K4, K1 (edge). 6 stitches decreased.
46 stitches in total.
Size XL: 24 times. (48 stitches decreased, 54 stitches remain).
Work 8 more rows as follows:
For the lace pattern:
Rows 1, and 5: K1 (edge), k2tog, K1, yo, K to last 4 stitches, ending with yo, K1, sd, K1 (edge). 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: P across
Rows 3 and 7: Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge), k2tog, K1, yo, K1, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K1, yo, K1, sd, K1 (edge). 4 stitches decreased.
50 stitches in total.
For the Textured No-Hole Pattern:
Rows 1, and 5: K across. 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: P across
Rows 3 and 7: K1 (edge), K4, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K4, K1 (edge). 4 stitches decreased.
50 stitches in total.
For the Simple No-Hole Pattern:
Rows 1, and 5: K across. 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: P across
Rows 3 and 7: K1 (edge), K4, sd, K to last 7 st, k2tog, K4, K1 (edge). 4 stitches decreased.
50 stitches in total.
Size XXL: 26 times. (52 stitches decreased, 58 stitches remain).
Work 8 more rows as follows:
For the lace pattern:
Rows 1, and 5: K1 (edge), k2tog, K1, yo, K to last 4 stitches, ending with yo, K1, sd, K1 (edge). 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: P across
Rows 3 and 7: Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge), k2tog, K1, yo, K1, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K1, yo, K1, sd, K1 (edge). 4 stitches decreased.
54 stitches in total.
For the Textured No-Hole Pattern:
Rows 1, and 5: K across. 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: P across
Rows 3 and 7: K1 (edge), K4, k2tog, K to last 7 st, sd, K4, K1 (edge). 4 stitches decreased.
54 stitches in total.
For the Simple No-Hole Pattern:
Rows 1, and 5: K across. 0 stitches decreased.
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: P across
Rows 3 and 7: K1 (edge), K4, sd, K to last 7 st, k2tog, K4, K1 (edge). 4 stitches decreased.
54 stitches in total.
Neckline
Work 6 rows in 2 x 2 Rib Stitch, as follows:
Sizes XS, S, and M:
Row 1: K1 (edge), *K2, P2*. Repeat to last 3 st, end with K2, K1 (edge)
Row 2: P1 (edge), *P2, K2*. Repeat to last 3 st, end with P2, P1 (edge).
Sizes L, XL, and XXL:
Row 1: K1 (edge), *K2, P2*. Repeat to last st, K1 (edge)
Row 2: P1 (edge), *P2, K2*. Repeat to last st, P1 (edge).
Next row (all sizes): Bind Off working each st as it presents.
Repeat the process for the Front.
Sleeves
Ribbing
Using the smaller needles, CO 42 (44 – 46 – 46 – 50 – 50) st.
Work 16 rows in 2 x 2 Rib stitch pattern, as explained for the back and the front for sizes XS, M, L, XL, and XXL.
Size S only:
Row 1: K1 (edge), *K2, P2*. Repeat to last 3 st, end with K2, K1 (edge)
Row 2: P1 (edge), *P2, K2*. Repeat to last 3 st, end with P2, P1 (edge).
Stockinette Stitch Section + Increases
Change to larger needles and work in Stockinette Stitch, while making increases, as follows:
Size XS
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the row (at the beginning and the end) every 8 rows (7 times).
Row 1 and every odd row (RS): K across
Rows 8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, and 56 (WS): P1 (edge), pfb, P to last 2 st, pfb, P1 (edge).
Row 2 and all other even rows: P across
14 stitches increased. 52 stitches remain.
Size S
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the row (at the beginning and the end) every 6 rows (11 times).
Row 1 and every odd row (RS): K across
Rows 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60, and 66, (WS): P1 (edge), pfb, P to last 2 st, pfb, P1 (edge).
Row 2 and all other even rows: P across
22 stitches increased. 66 stitches remain.
Size M (this is the only size where the increases are made on the odd rows)
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the row (at the beginning and the end) every 5 rows (13 times).
Row 1 and all other odd rows (RS): K across
Rows 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, and 65: K1 (edge), kfb, K to last 2 st, kfb, K1 (edge).
Row 2 and every even row: P across
26 stitches increased. 72 stitches remain.
Size L
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the row (at the beginning and the end) every 4 rows (16 times).
Row 1 and every odd row (RS): K across
Rows 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, and 64 (WS): P1 (edge), pfb, P to last 2 st, pfb, P1 (edge).
Row 2 and all other even rows: P across
32 stitches increased. 78 stitches remain.
Size XL
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the row (at the beginning and the end) every 4 rows (18 times).
Row 1 and every odd row (RS): K across
Rows 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, and 72 (WS): P1 (edge), pfb, P to last 2 st, pfb, P1 (edge).
Row 2 and all other even rows: P across
36 stitches increased. 86 stitches remain.
Size XXL
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the row (at the beginning and at the end) every 4 rows (20 times).
Row 1 and every odd row (RS): K across
Rows 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, and 80 (WS): P1 (edge), pfb, P to last 2 st, pfb, P1 (edge).
Row 2 and all other even rows: P across
40 stitches increased. 90 stitches remain.
All Sizes: Work in Stockinette Stitch until the sleeve measures 41 (41 – 41 – 43.7 – 43.7 – 43.7) cm / 16 (16 – 16 – 17 – 17 – 17) in from the cast on edge, ending with a WS row.
Armhole Decreases
At the beginning of the next 2 rows, bind off some stitches, as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Bind off knitwise 4 (4 – 5 – 5 – 6 – 6) st, K to end
Row 2 (WS): Bind off purlwise 4 (4 – 5 – 5 – 6 – 6) st, P to end
48 (58 – 62 – 68 – 74 – 78) st remain.
Work the Raglan Line as per the Front and the Back.
The rows will be worked exactly as before, but the number of stitches will be different, as follows:
Size XS: 30 st decreased. 18 st remain.
Size S: 38 st decreased. 20 st remain
Size M: 40 st decreased. 22 st remain.
Size L: 46 st decreased. 22 st remain.
Size XL: 52 st decreased. 26 st remain.
Size XXL: 56 st decreased. 22 st remain.
Ribbing
Work 6 rows in 2 x 2 Rib Stitch, as follows:
Size XS, M, L, XL, and XXL:
Row 1: K1 (edge), *K2, P2*. Repeat to last st, K1 (edge)
Row 2: P1 (edge), *P2, K2*. Repeat to last st, P1 (edge).
Next row: Bind Off working each st as it presents.
Size S:
Row 1: K1 (edge), *K2, P2*. Repeat to last 3 st, end with K2, K1 (edge)
Row 2: P1 (edge), *P2, K2*. Repeat to last 3 st, end with P2, P1 (edge).
Next row: Bind Off working each st as it presents.
Work the second sleeve, and you’re ready to block the 4 pieces (it’s better to block them before seaming).
How to join the pieces of the Raglan Sweater
In the last video of this series, you’ll see how to do the mattress stitch (invisible seaming).
Place the front next to one sleeve (facing the right side of the work).
Starting at the ribbing, join one side of the sleeve to one side of the front and then, join the other side of this sleeve to one side of the back.
Second, join one side of the other sleeve to the other side of the front, and then, join the other side of this sleeve to the other side of the back.
Now, join the sleeve from the armhole to the cuff.
Finally, join the sides of the sweater, from the armhole to the hem.
Repeat the process for the other sleeve and the other side of the sweater.
Now, weave in the ends.
Et voilà, your Raglan Sweater is finished!
Congratulations 🙂 I hope your Raglan Sweater turns out beautifully!
This is the playlist where you’ll find all the videos of this series
Hugs, and happy knitting,
Carolina – So Woolly
